Notes
Provenance: Traditionally by family descent from the
contemporary Bishop of Hereford.
There can be no doubt that the uniquely decorated case of this
watch is a product of the Blois school of enamelling. Most likely
it was actually made in Blois, since there is little evidence that
tr ained craftsmen set up in business outside of France much
before 1650, and anyway the techniques were a closely guarded
secret. Felibien Iles Avaux, writing in 1676, ascribes the
technique of painting in enamel on enamel to Jean Toutin, a
goldsmith from Chateaudun, with a date of 1632.
Contemporary records would indicate an earlier date, probably
the end of the 1620's. What makes this case such an interesting
survival is the fact that it appears to bridge the gap between the
earlier extant techniques of simple matt and translucent
enamelling which can be traced back to the 16th centuy, and
the fully fledged painting in enamels that characterised the
Blois school in the mid-17th century.
The pallet of translucent colours is extensive for the period,
with six different colours employed to decorate the champleve
flowers and foliage that cover the case and dial. These are laid
over an engraved or flinque, gold ground. Four opaque
enamels complete the pallet, with the white background being
further decorated with motifs painted in black. A single flower
is picked out in powder blue and white, with the same colour
being utilisecl on the pendant. Painting on enamel in enamel,
for which the Blois school is most famed, involved the
construction of an exceptionally thin gold framework which was
enamelled on all surfaces, the inside or '.counter, enamel
being an integral part of the structure. This case was made using
a different technique. Initially the shell would have been cast or
drawn up in considerable thickness, sufficient to support the
stresses involved in firing the enamels without distortion.
Afterwards, the Q,excess, gold would have been recovered by
scraping away the interior until only a thin skin remained.
Pierre Vilar in his classic work A History of Gold And Money 1450
- 1920, provides an indication of the enormous value of gold at
the time. By his calculation, in 1500, if all the gold in Europe
were combined into a block, it would have measured only 2
metres cube. Although watches of this period are rare by any
account, it is certain that many would have been scrapped in
subsequent years simply on account of their precious metal
content.
William Clay, probably working before 1632, and died circa
1662. Never officially elected to the Clockmakers Company, but
was accepted by them. Recorctect address - King's Street,
Westminster - and took three apprentices, Charles Duffa in
1646, George Fullum in 1649 and Arthur-Dove in 1659. Flown
work includes a superior lantern clock and watches.
William Clay is listed in all the leading works covering the
period, but since he never became an official member of the
nascent Clockmakers Company, opinions as to his exact
working dates vary. According to Britten (6th edition), he was a
brother of the Company between 1640 and 1680, and the maker
of a watch presented by Cromwell to a certain Colonel Bagley
after the siege of Clonmel. Britten makes record of the fact that
certain clock and watchmakers (William Clay included) were
accepted as Members (Brothers) of the Clockmakers Company
after its establishment in 1631. Usually they were already
members of another Company, most notably the Blacksmiths.
Loomes, The Early English Clockmakers of Great Britain, confirms
that Clay was never officially admitted to the Company, but
records that he supported them in their dispute of 1656. It
would be logical to assume that membership of any City
Company, with its rights and privileges, would be an honour
that every craftsman would aspire to. However, there were
disadvantages, mainly in the form of financial contributions,
known as cEquarterage, and many attempted to avoid this if
reasonable excuse could be found.
Bibliography:
F. J. Britten, Old Clocks And Watches And Their Makers, 6th.
edition, London 1932.
Brian Loomes, 7'he Early Clockntakers Of Great Britain, NAG Press
1981.
Pierre Vilar, A History of Gold And Money 1450-1920, Verso,1991.