Important Watches, Wristwatches and C...

Geneva, Hotel Des Bergues, Oct 31, 1998

LOT 474

William Clay Fecit, London, circa 1630, with Blois enamelled case. Double body 22K gold and enamel pre-balance spring watch, accompanied by an 18th century green leather covered protecting case.

CHF 250,000 - 300,000

C. Double body, bassine, fully decorated with multicoloured flinque enamelled flowers over a white ground (small invisible restoration). D. Decorated en suite, the white enamel chapter ring with Roman numerals. Single gilt brass "tulip" hand. M. Hinged gilt brass full plate with turned baluster pillars, short train, fusee with gut line, verge escapement, plain steel two-arm balance without spring, gilt brass irregular cock (restored on the table), the worm screw setting with a gold disc. Signed on the back plate. Diam. 29 mm.


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Grading System
Case: 3-21

Good

Period

Movement: 3-21*

Good

Period

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 3-01

Good

HANDS Original

Notes

Provenance: Traditionally by family descent from the contemporary Bishop of Hereford. There can be no doubt that the uniquely decorated case of this watch is a product of the Blois school of enamelling. Most likely it was actually made in Blois, since there is little evidence that tr ained craftsmen set up in business outside of France much before 1650, and anyway the techniques were a closely guarded secret. Felibien Iles Avaux, writing in 1676, ascribes the technique of painting in enamel on enamel to Jean Toutin, a goldsmith from Chateaudun, with a date of 1632. Contemporary records would indicate an earlier date, probably the end of the 1620's. What makes this case such an interesting survival is the fact that it appears to bridge the gap between the earlier extant techniques of simple matt and translucent enamelling which can be traced back to the 16th centuy, and the fully fledged painting in enamels that characterised the Blois school in the mid-17th century. The pallet of translucent colours is extensive for the period, with six different colours employed to decorate the champleve flowers and foliage that cover the case and dial. These are laid over an engraved or flinque, gold ground. Four opaque enamels complete the pallet, with the white background being further decorated with motifs painted in black. A single flower is picked out in powder blue and white, with the same colour being utilisecl on the pendant. Painting on enamel in enamel, for which the Blois school is most famed, involved the construction of an exceptionally thin gold framework which was enamelled on all surfaces, the inside or '.counter, enamel being an integral part of the structure. This case was made using a different technique. Initially the shell would have been cast or drawn up in considerable thickness, sufficient to support the stresses involved in firing the enamels without distortion. Afterwards, the Q,excess, gold would have been recovered by scraping away the interior until only a thin skin remained. Pierre Vilar in his classic work A History of Gold And Money 1450 - 1920, provides an indication of the enormous value of gold at the time. By his calculation, in 1500, if all the gold in Europe were combined into a block, it would have measured only 2 metres cube. Although watches of this period are rare by any account, it is certain that many would have been scrapped in subsequent years simply on account of their precious metal content. William Clay, probably working before 1632, and died circa 1662. Never officially elected to the Clockmakers Company, but was accepted by them. Recorctect address - King's Street, Westminster - and took three apprentices, Charles Duffa in 1646, George Fullum in 1649 and Arthur-Dove in 1659. Flown work includes a superior lantern clock and watches. William Clay is listed in all the leading works covering the period, but since he never became an official member of the nascent Clockmakers Company, opinions as to his exact working dates vary. According to Britten (6th edition), he was a brother of the Company between 1640 and 1680, and the maker of a watch presented by Cromwell to a certain Colonel Bagley after the siege of Clonmel. Britten makes record of the fact that certain clock and watchmakers (William Clay included) were accepted as Members (Brothers) of the Clockmakers Company after its establishment in 1631. Usually they were already members of another Company, most notably the Blacksmiths. Loomes, The Early English Clockmakers of Great Britain, confirms that Clay was never officially admitted to the Company, but records that he supported them in their dispute of 1656. It would be logical to assume that membership of any City Company, with its rights and privileges, would be an honour that every craftsman would aspire to. However, there were disadvantages, mainly in the form of financial contributions, known as cEquarterage, and many attempted to avoid this if reasonable excuse could be found. Bibliography: F. J. Britten, Old Clocks And Watches And Their Makers, 6th. edition, London 1932. Brian Loomes, 7'he Early Clockntakers Of Great Britain, NAG Press 1981. Pierre Vilar, A History of Gold And Money 1450-1920, Verso,1991.