Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

Geneva, May 13, 2012

LOT 39

NAVETTE-SHAPED RING WATCH Bonna Fréres, (Geneva). Made circa 1800. Very fine and extremely rare, 18K gold, enamel and rose-cut diamond-set ring watch with visible balance.

CHF 11,000 - 16,000

USD 12,000 - 17,500 / EUR 9,000 - 13,000

C. Two-body, navette-shaped, the bezel decorated with green champlevé enamel and gold stylized fl ower heads on a blue champlevé enamel ground, sliding cover opening to reveal apertures for winding, hand-setting and regulation, the shank with foliate shoulders. D. White enamel, navette-shaped, chapter ring in the lower half with Arabic numerals, outer dot minute divisions and Arabic quarter-hour numerals, aperture for the visible rose-cut diamond-set balance in the upper half with mirror-polished plate. Blued steel spear hands. M. 29.5 x 16 mm., navette-shaped, matte gilt, going barrel, cylinder escapement, blued steel fl at balance spring, rose-cut diamond-set balance visible through the dial. Dial signed. Dim. 34 x 20 mm. Shank diameter 19 mm.


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Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent
Case: 2

Very good
Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 3-24-01

Good

Slightly chipped

HANDS Original

Notes

These rare ring watches were made in Geneva as novel and intriguing ?toys? for the rich and the aristocracy. What today would be considered a feminine object would have been perfectly acceptable for a man to wear during the period it was made; this is further highlighted by the large size of the ring shank. In the early 19th century a ring watch such as this would have been hugely expensive and regarded as a mechanical marvel in miniature.
Bonna Frères Makers and retailers who were working in Geneva approximately between 1770 and 1800. The present watch has many similarities to another shield shaped watch signed by Antoine Moilliet & Cie sold by Antiquorum on March 29, 2009, lot 365. It is therefore attributed to that maker on this basis. This watch is unusual because it has a separate seconds dial instead of the more usual visible balance. To allow for the seconds dial, the balance is mounted on the backplate of the movement beneath a separate cock