Importantes Montres de Collection

Geneva, Nov 13, 2011

LOT 508

COUSIN, MINIATURE CALENDAR DIAMOND RING WITH SIGNED & DATED DIAL BY COTEAU (Joseph-Simon) Cousin, Invenit et Ft., (Paris), the dial by Joseph Coteau, dated 1777. An exceptional, unique and important, Louis XVI, miniature calendar ring set with rose-cut diamonds, with four hands from the center for the calendar indications of date, days of the week, months with number of days, signs of the zodiac and moon phases with lunar calendar. Accompanied by the original shagreen-covered fitted box and the original hand-written description manuscript presumably in Cousin?s hand.

CHF 35,000 - 45,000

USD 38,000 - 50,000 / EUR 30,000 - 37,000

Sold: CHF 43,750

C. Two-body, gold body and reeded shank, the border, shoulders and hinged oval bezel set with rose-cut diamonds, concealed catch released by depressing a diamond on the right shoulder, another diamond at 10 sets the calendar. D. Oval white enamel on gold, the counter enamel signed Coteau Ft. 1777, concentric indications for the date, days of the week and months with their number of days, outer signs of the zodiac, outermost border decorated with polychrome fl owers and trophies, aperture for the moon phase with lunar calendar on the periphery. Two steel hands and two gold hands from the center. M. Oval, gilt-brass. Dial signed Cousin Invenit et Ft., dial reverse signed Coteau Ft. 1777. Dim. 21 x 19 mm., diameter of shank 18mm.


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Grading System
Grade:
Case: 27

Custom-made
Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 3-25-71-01

Good

Chipped

ENAMEL AND VARIOUS TYPES OF DECORATION Hairlines

HANDS Original

Notes

This unique ring with miniature calendar from the reign of Louis XVI represents a very early example of a miniaturized calendar, some 35 years before Etienne Tavernier was making similar mechanisms for watch keys. The survival of the fi tted box and original manuscript description is nothing short of miraculous. In 1777, this ring would have been seen as a marvelous curiosity and extremely expensive. The sumptuous diamond setting was intended to show it off to maximum effect and it is very likely to have been made with a member of the Royal family in mind. The making of the ring was a collaboration between the watchmaker Joseph-Simon Cousin who was watchmaker to the younger brother of Louis XVI, the Comte d?Artois (later Charles X) and Joseph Coteau, the most eminent French enameler of the 18th century. Signed and dated dials by Coteau are extremely rare, the fact that the dial of this ring is signed and dated further illustrates its importance and that Coteau wished to be known as the maker of this dial for posterity. In his manuscript description, Cousin describes the ring as unique and therefore as far as he knew, nothing like it had been made before. It is ingeniously conceived and beautifully made, the hidden release catch to open the bezel is activated by pressing one of the diamonds and the hand-setting is achieved the same way, by pressing another diamond in the band. All four hands for the calendar indications are mounted from the center arbor for elegance of design. Both Louis XVI and his brother, the Comte d?Artois were very interested in horology. It is certainly quite possible that as Cousin?s main patron, the Comte d?Artois, was intended to be the recipient of such an exquisite and exceptional curiosity, Cousin knowing that whoever wore this ring would attract the admiration and envy of many at court