Important Collectors’ Wristwatches, P...

Hong Kong,the Ritz Carlton Hotel,harbour Room, 3rd Floor, Nov 25, 2006

LOT 37

"Star of the East" Louis Audemars, No. 14261. Made for the Islamic market, circa 1880. Very fine and magnificent, 18K gold, enamel and rock crystal-set, hunting cased, keyless pocket watch set with 180 diamonds and with a solid gold champlevé enamel and diamond-set dial.

HKD 750,000 - 1,000,000

USD 96,000 - 130,000 / EUR 76,000 - 100,000

Sold: HKD 885,000

C. Four body, the ridged band, pendant, crown and bow set with rose-cut and round diamonds, the front cover pierced and set with twelve pear-shaped rock crystal panels intersected by Royal blue and red translucent enameled engraved foliate spokes, round diamond-set border, the center set with a large old mine-cut diamond weighing approximately 3.7 carats and surrounded by old-mine cut diamonds, the back cover similarly decorated and with white enamel dots on the border and in the center. Hinged gold cuvette overlaid with translucent royal blue enamel over wavy-line engine-turning. D. Solid gold and white champlevé enamel, rose-cut diamond-set Islamic numerals, outer gold minute divisions and diamond dot five minute markers. Blued steel "spade" hands. M. 40 mm., 18''', rhodium-plated, "fausses-cotes" decoration, 19 jewels, wolf's tooth winding, gold wheel train, jewels on the pallet fork and balance wheel, with gold caps, counterpoised straightline lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance, Breguet balance spring, index regulator. Diam. 53 mm.


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Grading System
Grade:
Case: 3

Good
Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 2-05

Very good

HANDS Luminous material reapplied

Notes

This watch is magnificently decorated and set with 180 old-mine cut and rose-cut diamonds, the central stone is approximately 3.7 carats in weight. The panels of rock crystal allow the wearer to see the dial numerals without opening the case. The dial is particularly unusual and superbly made, it is a plate of solid gold cut-away to leave the numerals and markers standing proud, the surrounding recess is then filled with white enamel in the process known as champlevé, the numerals were then set with rose-cut diamonds. Although unsigned, this watch is likely to have been made by Louis Audemars. Watches of this nature were made for and presented by Pashas of the Ottoman Empire. Louis Audemars (1782-1833) Born in La Vallée de Joux, at 16 Louis Audemars was apprenticed to Philippe Meylan and soon established his reputation for the fine workmanship of his movements. All eight of Audemar's sons continued in the family firm, making finished movements, and around 1837 inventing the keyless winding/setting system known today as the Audemars system. In 1848 Audemars began producing complete watches. The company became recognized as one of the best, furnishing the major Swiss and French manufacturers such as Le Roy, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin, with highly complicated watches and movements.