Notes
Provenance:
Made for Merle Oberon in 1938.
This Indian-style necklace with baroq,.e emerald drops
was made by Cartier London, in 1938 for the British
actress Merle Oberon. This necklace is a wonderful
example of Oberon's elegant taste and sensitivity. The
emeralds themselves are noteworthy for several reasons.
First there is the "hrdian connection" and the historical
associations of such stones adorning maharajahs and
mighty moguls, lending a certain "fairy tale quality" to
the piece. Yet with or without illustrious associations, it is
rare to see such an accumulation of so many emeralds, in
such large sizes, and of such quality. Another element
that must be noted with regard to the emeralds is the
subtle graduation of the drops and the balance of the
shapes, which combine to create a graceful line often
absent in necklaces using so many large stones. The
unusual construction of this piece is also rare - using
diamond-set loop bails to rotate totally around the
platinum from which they are suspended. This allows
perfect conformity to the neck, allowing the necklace to
lay perfectly and giving it a more elegant appearance
when being worn. This important element also adds
character lacking in most necklaces of this type.
Literature:
This magnificent piece has been the most photographed
Cartier necklace of all time.
Hollywood Jewels, Movies Jewelry * Stars, by Penny
Proddow, Debra Healy, Marion Fasel; Photography by
David Behl; Harry N. Abrams, Inc., Publishers, New
York, (USA), 1992, page 91-93;
Cartier - Jeruelers Extraordinary, by Hans Nadelhoffer,
1984, plate n° 28;
Platinuni By Cartier, Triunrphs of the Jewelers' Art, by
Franco Cologni and Eric Nusshaum (originally published
in France © 1995 by Cartier, under the title "Cartier:
Joaillier du Platine") English language edition © 1996 by
Cartier, published in 1996 by Harry N. Abrams,
Incorpora ted (USA), pages 178-179, as well as the back
jacket cuver.
Exhibited:
L'Art de Cartier, Musée du Petit-Palais, Paris, Exhibition
Catalogue 20 October 1989 - 28 January 1990, illustration
n° 467, page 156.
L'Art de Cartier, Accademia Valentino, Roma, Exhibition
Catalogue 31 May - 5 August; 5 August -10 October 1990,
plate n° F/LVI, page 64.
Hollywood Jewels, Exhibiton of the Jewels of the Sta rs,
Hollywood (CA), 1992.