The Magical Art of Cartier

Geneva, Nov 19, 1996

LOT 21

Belle Epoque Diamond "Draperie" Brooch/ Pendant Paris, circa 1912

CHF 110,000 - 120,000

USD 90,000 - 100,000

Sold: CHF 190,500

Diamond-set chain suspending three pear-shaped drops, each set with a pear-shaped diamond adorned by round diamonds with delicate diamond dangles joined to the chain by a stylized palmette and topped with diamond-set foliate designs, mounted in platinum; the piece separates, forming a pendant which can be attached to a platinum chain which is included (as well as a tiny screw driver) in the back of the fitted box. Accompanied by original fitted leather box. Cartier Certificate of Authenticity N° 2021.


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Notes

The beauty of this piece lies in its extreme lightness and fluidity which was almost unheard of at the time. Cartier's early use of platinum allowed for the elimination of heavy settings and stiff forms; it enabled the eye to enjoy the purity of design with clean, flexible lines, focusing on the beauty on the gemstones. White platinum was still a relatively new metal, this piece exhibits extremely fine, detailed workmanship which can be seen in other fine examples of later dates. Another important detail of this piece is the fact that one is already seeing "exotic" motifs and geometric forms (such as the palmette designs and geometric suspension dangles) which are so reminiscent of the later Art Deco period. Above ail, the simple, yet rich elegance of this jabotpendant makes it an outstanding example of timeless jewelry.