Notes
For a "triple complication", the movement of this watch is extremely thin and is certainly
among the slimmest made at the time.
Similar triple complication dress watches are illustrated in ?Audemars Piguet?, by G. L.
Brunner, Chr. Pfeiffer-Belli, and M. K. Wehrli, 1993 Edition, pp. 153-156.
Audemars Piguet, Le Brassus and Geneva
The firm was founded in 1875 by two watchmakers, Jules Audemars and
Edward Piguet, aged 24 and 22, under the name ?Audemars Piguet,
Manufacture d'Horlogerie?. Jules Audemars was born in Le Brassus in
1851, where he was trained by master watchmakers of the area. After his
apprenticeship, Audemars began work as a ?repasseur?. In 1874, he
moved to Gimel and opened a small business next to his workshop. It did
not, however, acheive the success he had hoped for, probably due to the
recession which was then beginning. Eighteen months later he decided to
return to Le Brassus, hoping to find a situation more in keeping with his
exceptional watchmaking skill. Edward Auguste Piguet, born two years
after Jules Audemars, received a similar education. Edward completed his
formation as a ?repasseur? in the workshops of Charles Capt. The two met
in 1875 in Le Brassus. For a time, the two watchmakers worked closely
together without legally officializing their partnership. In 1880, they
opened a branch in Geneva, where commercial possibilities were the
greatest. The Audemars, Piguet & Cie name was finally registered at the
Bern "Office technique de l'Edition et de la Publicité" on December, 6,
1882, as producing movements and watch cases. Audemars Piguet
& Cie is presented as a manufacture active all year long, with
10 male employees. Due to his exceptional technical abilities,
Jules Audemars was the technical manager of the manufacture.
He patented several inventions in Switzerland and in
the USA, and traveled extensively, particularly to America,
where the potential for trade fascinated him. Edward Piguet
was the financial specialist of the firm. The two men managed
the company together until 1918, when Jules
Audemars died at the age of 67. Piguet died the following
year. The name Audemars Piguet was to
become synonymous with watches of
exceptional quality, superb complications
and incredibly thin movements.
The list of their accomplishments
is impressive, to
say the least. They manufactured
many of the world's
most complicated watches,
the majority of which
were sold to other manufacturers,
who in turn
sold them as their
own watches. Famous
examples are
the Universal-Uhr
of Uhrenfabrik Union, and the so-called ?grosse piece? which was sold as
the ?Astronomical Watch? by Smith & Son Ltd, of London both of which
were the most complicated watches in world when they were sold, 1899
and 1914 respectively. From here they went on to produce the world's
smallest five-minute repeating watch (7'''), in 1915, the first wristwatches
with perpetual calendar and moon phases in 1924, a pocket watch with a
movement 1.32 mm thick in 1925, the thinnest lady's watch in 1960, the
thinnest automatic watch, 2.24 mm in 1967, followed three years later by
an automatic jump-hour watch with a thickness of 3.05 mm. 1978, 1989
and 1990 saw the size of automatic watches with perpetual calendar
reduced from to 3.95 mm to 3,75 mm.
The finest example of Audemars Piguet's quest for thinness came in 1986
with the launching of an automatic watch with Tourbillion regulator. Its
overall thickness of 4.8 mm was achieved by setting jewels into the case
back and utilizing it as a plate. In 1972 the launch of the ?Royal Oak?
marked a turning point in the way watchmakers looked at ?luxury?.
Designed by Gerald Genta, the ?Royal Oak? has become one of the most
instantly recognizable watches in history, and the Flagship model
in the Audemars Piguet portfolio. In its time it has been produced
in steel, gold, platinum, tantale, and combinations
thereof. It has been set with gems of every description and has
housed some of the firm's most complicated movements.
During the ?Quartz Revolution? of the 1970s this watch, more
than any other, was responsible for Audemars Piguet's success.
The launch of the Offshore saw a watch that was of a
size thought to be unwearable: the gold version with
bracelet weighs over 500 grams. The resilient Royal
Oak once again proved the critics wrong. The
2003 Basel Fair introduced the Royal Oak
T3, which dwarfs the Offshore. The
last ten years have seen the launch
of a wristwatch with carillon and
Grande and Petite Sonnerie, as
well as the ?Cabinet Watches?
which are among the most
complicated wristwatches
in the world. There is
also the ?John Scheffer?
minute repeater
which is destined to
become another of
Audemars Piguet's
style icons.